Rained out at Tenorio Volcano

Steve has a dream of climbing every volcano in Costa Rica. That’s a lot of mountain peaks.

: We set off to spend a night at Heliconias Lodge, with plans to climb Tenório volcano in the morning. The clouds covering the peak should have been a warning to us.

: After a leisurely morning drive from Casa Mango and Casa Papaya, we arrived at mid-day to find simple but nicely landscaped grounds. Just a few kiolmenters from the compelling Rio Celeste wherethe water is an icy blue.

: We chose a loop trail with 3 “Hanging Bridges” for our afternoon hike. I wondered what all the fuss was about. I’ve been on bridges before.

: But, when I achieved the center span, 30 meters above the ravine, I found myself inside the tree canopy.

: Surrounded by leaves and epiphytes,

: I suddenly understood why birds live here.

: Some trunks were dripping with the orchids and bromeliads.

: Like viewing a Maxfield Parrish, we peaked through the layers of trees to the misty valley beyond.

: The cabled suspension bridges – some are 75 meters long – looked strong enough, even for an acrophobic like me. Although never completely comfortable, I was eventually able to get up off my knees enough to see over the rail.

: The trees in Costa Rica aren’t as old as you’d expect for trunks so huge. They tend to topple over from the weight of the hangers-on. The monkeys dowhat they can to knock the stuff off.

: When we left the bridge over the ravine, we left the tree canopy and dropped to the forest floor with a single step.

: The giant trunks are buttressed to support the weight of the canopy, 50 meters above.

: A Crested Guan in the afternoon light.

: Albergue Heliconias Lodge and Rainforest has 3 types of rooms.

: We chose a cottage. I wonder where Maria Shriver and the kids stayed.

: A shaded balcony, overlooking the silent hills. Nothing but birds and rustling leaves

: In the dining room, we made a classic tourist mistake – expecting Mexican food in Costa Rica, which Ticos are happy to attempt. But they have no taste for spicy and they think ketchup is an entree.

: To Steve’s disappointment, the following morning brought drenching rain on the face of the volcano – remember that cloud cover – and a steep trail too slippery to attempt. You know you’re on the Atlantic slope when you see cascades of Impatiens in the roadside ditches. Warm and wet.

: The Cordillera de Tilarán is a row of volcanoes along the continental divide – Cacao, Rincon de la Vieja, Miravalles, Tenório, and Arenal – which acts like a curtain to trap the Atlantic weather on the east side. Turns out the dry season there doesn’t start until March. Who knew?

Albergue Heliconias Lodge and Rainforest is a cooperative, owned by 10 local families who wrestled the 73 hectare (175 acres) patch of forest from impending deforestation for agricultural use back in 1985. With international and governmental support, they’ve achieved a new model of conservation and preservation as a privately owned rainforest reserve, managed by the local community. They are committed to the conservation of biodiversity, environmental education, and sustainable community development,